Four ways to put in an electric fireplace, priced by the work

Four installs, four levels of work

Electric fireplaces are the simplest fireplaces to add, since there's nothing to vent and no fuel line to run. That doesn't mean every install is the same. The work ranges from unboxing a plug-in unit to cutting a wall open and framing a recess.

Common approaches include plug-in or mantel packages, wall mounting, recessed installation and inserts for approved existing openings. Each has different support, clearance, electrical and finish requirements. Their cost order varies with the appliance and house.

Knowing which one you want before anyone quotes keeps the numbers comparable, since a price for a wall mount and a price for a recessed install aren't the same job.

Plug-in units and mantel packages

A freestanding electric fireplace or a mantel package, where the firebox comes set in a furniture-style surround, is the lightest install. It's assembled, placed, anchored to the wall if the maker calls for it, and plugged into an existing outlet.

The main things to check are the outlet's location and the maker's rule to plug directly into the wall rather than into an extension cord or a power strip. If the nearest outlet is on the wrong wall, adding one closer is an electrician's task.

That puts a plug-in unit at the low end of the cost to install an electric fireplace, and it's easy to move later if you rearrange the room or take it with you when you sell.

Plug-in heaters are sized for a standard outlet, so they suit rooms that need a little extra warmth. If you're hoping to heat a large open space, look at the heater's rating before you buy, since a bigger heater may mean a built-in unit and its own circuit.

Wall-mounted units

A wall-mounted fireplace hangs like a large picture, with a bracket fastened to the wall studs. The work includes finding studs, mounting the bracket level, hanging the unit and dealing with the cord.

The cord is what separates a tidy install from a messy one. Some owners accept a cord running down the wall. For a clean look, the usual route is an outlet placed behind or right beside the unit, installed by an electrician, so the cord disappears.

If a TV is going above the fireplace, the maker's clearances between the heater outlet and the TV matter, and the mounting plan should respect them.

Recessed and built-in units

A recessed unit sits inside the wall, flush or nearly flush, for a built-in look. That means cutting an opening, framing it to the size and clearances the manual gives, running power into the opening and closing the wall back up around the unit.

Some recessed units fit into an ordinary wall cavity. Deeper ones need a bump-out, a framed box that projects from the wall, and that adds framing, drywall and finish. Tile, stone or other finishes around the opening add their own material and labor, and your quote spells out the finish and who handles it.

Recessed installs sit at the upper end of electric installation cost, and they're where the room's layout matters most. An exterior wall may hold insulation, pipes or wiring in the cavity, and an interior wall may carry load from above, so the opening gets planned around what's inside the wall.

The payoff is a finished look that reads as part of the house, with no box sticking out and no cord in sight.

Electric inserts in an existing fireplace

An electric insert can be considered for an existing opening when its instructions permit that installation. Dimensions, support, clearances, condition and electrical supply still need checking. A factory-built fireplace is not automatically approved for every electric insert that physically fits.

Any treatment of the old flue needs to account for the existing chimney, moisture and other connected appliances. Do not block a flue as a general energy-saving step. Have the installer define the approved arrangement and confirm that no operating appliance relies on it.

Matching the unit to the room

Before selecting a model, compare its dimensions and required clearances with the intended position. A simple outline can help visualize the size, but does not establish structural support or electrical suitability. Those need to be included in installation planning.

Size matters visually too. A wide linear unit on a long wall looks balanced where a small box would look lost, and a tall unit can overwhelm a low wall. Our pros can help you sketch the proportions on the wall with painter's tape before anything gets cut or drilled.

Finally, think about where you'll sit. The heater outlet should blow into the room, clear of furniture, curtains and anything within the clearance the manual lists.

The circuit question, and the smaller lines

A plug-in fireplace needs an outlet and circuit that meet its exact rating and instructions. Hardwired units and new or altered circuits need appropriate electrical work. Confirm the supply before choosing a model; an ordinary-looking outlet does not establish suitability.

That line can be the biggest single swing in the price, depending on how far the unit sits from the electrical panel and how easy it is to run wire through the walls. Check the unit's electrical requirements before you buy, so the circuit question is answered early.

A few smaller items round out the price.

• Removing an old unit, or clearing out an old fireplace before an insert goes in.
• Mounting a TV above the fireplace, if it's part of the plan.
• Assembling a media console or mantel that ships in pieces.
• Patching and painting the wall after a cord is concealed.
• Hauling away packaging and the old unit.

Get your electric install priced

Picked a wall for an electric fireplace? Our family-run installers look at the wall and the power during a free visit, tell you when a new circuit calls for an electrician and write out the full price. Your first service receives 10% off. For electric fireplace installation, phone (352) 675-6366.